Now that is what takes authenticity, is not so much in fashion dress parades. In the first row there are more Vans with ripped jeans to suits. It is the sign of the times and the influence of artists such as Gosha Rubchinskiy: presentation last week at the fair Pitti in Florence, shows the sweet moment living the aesthetics of youthful rebellion. So it funny that man parades Fashion Week in Milan, for now, are still rather frivolous proudly.
Dsquared take several seasons vindicating their ability to reinvent any piece of male wardrobe, no matter if they are suits, shirts or jeans began, and those who have built an empire that just turned twenty. This time the inspiration was skin from the waist up and glam from the waist down. belted plaid shirts and jackets with military checkerboard pattern and foot, heel boots platform that would have made a happy man Marc Bolan.(formal dress)
As the parade progressed the thing grew. The Fates mods were covered with sequins (an unexpected trend for next season) and boots, glitter; in the end, Dan and Dean Caten, identical twins who founded the brand, came out to greet arm, parading with individual platforms and strips with gay flag waving in the wind: a celebration of difference and hedonism in the mourning after Orlando bombing.
Donatella Versace, who also knows a thing or two about fashion as evasion, knew how to put the audience to tone before its parade with a video of his friend Bruce Weber: Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and casting well-fed models nourished, filmed with the usual joie de vivre photographer and filmmaker. The clothes were also worth celebrating: smooth, sometimes elegant and sometimes sporty, colorful discreet but sometimes semitransparent. When they are rarities Prince (one, with a chorus that said: versace), Donatella proved that theirs is not the chaotic family business that once was, and that their discipline has yielded results at all levels.
A little earlier in the day yesterday, Dolce & Gabbana had submitted their fantasy of every season, this time inspired by a vision of jazz in Palermo. Among gold art deco lamps, there were prints saxophone and piano keys, tailoring for everyone, big guy gangster coats and sequined tuxedos (you see what he said?).
The starting point was some similarity with inspiration Forties Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta, only baggy pants German or delicate jackets patchwork fur, might seem luxurious second hand, and nothing in the race Dolce & Gabbana has never seemed even remotely used.(semi formal dresses)
Bottega Veneta has not paraded this season (shown clothes in private appointments in offices) because it will make a joint show next September, to celebrate 15 years of Tomas Maier aboard the house. Since the firm says it is a blip, but his absence in the calendar is added to the Zegna (which just changed designer) or Calvin Klein (who still does not have). This is an atypical season, so parades as above, or as the conceptual beauty, but friendly, we saw at Marni, comforting. Each does what it deserves. In Milan, everything changes, but everything is still in place.