Fashion Collection Fall 2016 make it clear that we return to the preppy wardrobe - emerged in the US in the late 40s subculture uniting college students who prepared the "golden youth" for admission to prestigious colleges. But in fact, the history of this style preppy - a long but fascinating story of how the descendants of Jewish immigrants to the United States were able to make a basic wardrobe "cream of society", BASPA (White Anglo-Saxon Protestants), a truly national and relevant to this day . The latest illustration of this story can serve as an exhibition of designer Isaac Mizrahi An Unruly History, which opened at the Jewish Museum in New York in late March. Although the fashion industry in the United States created the majority of the Jews, it is the first exposition of designer clothing for the whole history of the museum. It is paradoxical, but true.(formal dresses australia)
But back to the beginning. In the middle of the XIX century, the Lower East Side have been actively to colonize Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe, many of whom were tailors and seamstresses. Incidentally, among the first wave of immigrants were also legendary Levi Strauss and Lane Bryant (aka Lena Himmelstein), who founded the empires of readymade garments, still thriving.
At the time, workers sewing workshops receive meager salaries and worked from dawn to dusk in inhuman conditions. As is often the case, to change something radically could only tragedy. Horrible fire on the "Triangle" factory in 1911, which became the largest industrial disaster at the time, forced manufacturers to revise the conditions of work and approach to the arrangement of sewing workshops. In the 20's and 30's workshops for tailoring were modernized, become more professional, and the production itself has moved beyond the center - in the industrial buildings on 7th Avenue, constructed taking into account the requirements of fire, with comfortable showroom.
Only now own fashion-industry in the United States still did not exist. Prior to World War II, most American women her fashion guide in the world believed in Paris, and the manufacturers had no choice but to pay the French fashion houses for permission to copy the model. But when the Parisian fashion industry paralyzed the war, New York was finally able to get rid of the dictatorship of foreign and local new generation of designers were able to create a style exactly the way they saw it.
"Europe of the old brands make a real fetish, - writes fashion historian Valerie Steele works in the catalog of the exhibition Mizrahi. - In America, everybody wanted to look to the future, craved the next round. " Rather than look for the Europeans to shoulder, American designers began to draw inspiration from what is called the place - from the comfortable, informal and practical sportswear. And this is typical American style quickly spread around the world. Mizrahi sure that if you look at the work of all the top European designers even today, you can feel the influence of this "American Standard".
Initially, the American style is synonymous with culture BASPA - it is based was preppy wardrobe, as well as the shape of the members of the yacht and golf clubs where Jews traditionally entry was ordered. "For me, preppy clothes never had to do with religion or the level of material prosperity, - noted author and designer Susanna Salk in his book" The Privileged Life: preppy style. " - If a man dressed like a preppy, it indicated only that he knows what a "perfect combination of intelligence, grace and joy of life." No matter what it is on you, it is important - how you wear it. But this style is still had several defining purely prepsterskih things. "
One day, Ralph Lauren admitted: "People often ask me how Jewish kid from the Bronx manages to do things preppy. But is money and social status are important? The main thing - the dream. " Ruben Ralph Lifshitz was born in a family of Ashkenazi Jews who had emigrated to the United States from Belarus. He studied at the yeshiva, and his mother dreamed that one day the son would become a rabbi. But it did not work out. By Ralph Jewish scholars he did not show much interest, but loved sketching costumes and dresses(black tie dresses) that are seen on actors in Hollywood films. I love for fashion Ralph served as an imaginary shield that eclipsed him from the realities of the poor emigrant childhood.
In 25 years, Ralph Lauren was arranged by the seller in the Brooks Brothers store where you could learn prepsterov in their "natural habitat." And although the formal design and especially the marketing of education in Lorena was not, he quickly realized that it is best to sell not just clothes and style, and in 1967 released a polo shirt, named in honor of the legendary sport from England. At one point, it became clear that now anyone can buy what is considered elite and accessible only to the elite. Now, in the first place it was not the thing itself, but how it is worn. What motivated Lauren, it soon became a philosophy for a whole generation of not only the energetic yuppies 80s and Jewish emigrants of the second wave, that "thought in Yiddish, and dressed the British way", but also nostalgic BASPA, familiar life which crackled under the pressure of "antielitarnogo" end of movement 60's and early 70's.
Isaac Mizrahi, like Lauren, was a Jewish boy from Brooklyn, who seduced Hollywood. He was born in 1961 and became acquainted with fashion as a child, through pop culture. Mary Tyler Moore and Jackie Kennedy "... formed a taste of America," he said Isaac dedicated to him in the documentary Unzipped ( "unbuttoned"). Mizrachi grew up in a family that was part of a close-knit community of Sephardic Jews. A study at the yeshiva he did not like, and my father, who was also engaged in tailoring, bought a 10-year-old Isaac first sewing machine. At age 13, when most of his classmates were celebrating a bar mitzvah, Mizrahi has created clothing - in this year of the High Holidays of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, he sewed Mom excellent woolen skirt. School teachers have noticed a teenage love of theater and advised him to go to the High School of Performing Arts in Manhattan. And so he did - learned not there, and then graduated yet and Parsons School of Design.
While still a student Mizrahi received an invitation to do an internship at the designer Perry Ellis. New York Magazine named Ellis' famous BASPA, that there was no need to create the image of a wealthy heir, and so he had been. " Unlike its competitor Lauren Perry almost from childhood, he wore a shirt of oxford fabric, khaki pants and topsaydery, slept on the linen sheets and posed for publicity shots "on the pier near his house on Water Island. His long black hair fluttered in the wind, he was thoughtful and introspective - a real Hamlet with Seventh Avenue, who suddenly has to find answers to complex questions of existence - to sell or not to sell designer jeans. " As designers Bill Blass and Lily Pullittser, Ellis was a true American aristocrat who one day walked the golf course and accidentally wandered into the grounds of the fashion world.
Internship Mizrahi in Perry Ellis was as important for the formation of preppy style, as well as in the work of Lauren Brooks Brothers. His Mark Ellis created on the basis of the classic images that seemed just stepped from the pages of the almanac "Seven Sisters" - Association of the seven oldest and most prestigious women's colleges on the East Coast. The first show of Perry Ellis in 1978, it was decided to style a student football match: were there and the stands with spectators, and Princeton cheerleaders and football players, which adorned among other Bryn Mawr-coat (so named by analogy with the Bryn Mawr College ) and Vassar suit (also received its name in honor of the college). In a review of this show is the newspaper The New York Times wrote that "the clothes look as if it is not bought at the store, and took to vilify the older brother or friend." And it was not a criticism but a compliment.
Ellis was more than sure that his brand buy things only people in his circle - the representatives of high society. And what was his surprise when the director of a department store Bonwit Teller Ruttenshteyn Cal said, "wait a minute on Saturday at the entrance to the Temple Emanu-El, and see how the Jews at Perry Ellis, Bulgari jewelry out there, with the Gucci bags." And when Lauren has successfully sold his dream, Ellis has just realized that his reality - it is past, and it lacks the very "look outside". Jewish view.
Alice died in 1986. By that time, Mizrachi has already launched its own brand, and his classmate at Parsons, a 25-year-old Marc Jacobs, Perry took the place in the company. "Today, Jacobs was the young preppy what he was Ralph Lauren for her generation in 1980», - Vogue wrote in 2001. Jacobs was Jewish and, of course, to the preppy world did not belong. He was given carte blanche, and he took advantage of a pure heart discretion, jokingly adding a classic and aged preppy style a little sensuality. But humor is not understood everything. In 1993, Mark decided to go a step further and experiment with grunge, but crossed the line, and it still fired from Perry Ellis.
Mizrachi also absorbed the design style of his teacher. "With cheerful colors, elegant soft lines and gentle materials preppy style will be relevant always, like a box of crayons" - wrote Salk. According to her, Mizrahi's trademark was the use of tissue collections in bright cell and strip, belted with wide skirts tucked button-down shirt, jacquard sweaters, baggy coats and jackets with graphic silhouette.
Unlike their predecessors, the Mizrahi always very ironic attitude toward preppy style: one of his shows a model in a bright pink dress took on a podium with a poodle, painted in the same color is incredible. In 1991 he made a return kitsch lunge toward Lorena, who in his collection is absolutely seriously and without a trace of childishness used Navajo ornaments and leather fringe, joining the Wild West with the American Jewish immigration. The ability to combine elegant Mizrahi with coarse (eg, evening dress and soldier boots) reflected the paradoxical essence BASPA culture where moderation is adjacent to the style. When, in 1998, the fashion house was closed Isaac Mizrahi, the designer gave his paradoxical nature run wild on the full to create collections for both Target supermarket chain, and luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman.
According to Isaac Mizrahi, in terms of culture it - an absolute Jew, though nonobservant, and in his work he likes to make subtle references to Judaism and Jewish works of such legendary designers as NOREL and Sonia Delaunay. At the same time in its collections clearly shows the influence of other cultures. Thus, An Unruly History exhibition belts with buckles in the shape of a Star of David adorn near kilts, jackets and shirts with rounded collars.
Although preppy style long ceased to be the prerogative of only BASPA (if it ever was), the fashion world was, to put it mildly, at a loss, when in 2014 the company Brooks Brothers made their creative director Zac Posen. All were surprised not so much because he was a Jew (it is not someone else may surprise?), But because Posen has earned a name for itself by creating a delicate and exquisite, ultrazhenstvennye and evening gowns. The young designer and favorite stars all seemed to not be the most appropriate option for brands with established traditions and sufficiently conservative buyers.
But Posen turned to shake the classic American style bourgeois and infuse it with youth mischief. "The last thing you can imagine Zac Posen on the show - it's a free silk suit with a tropical print - Vogue wrote about the first collection for Zach Brooks Brothers. - In fact, it was a story about the island of Nantucket, models only Mr. Posen. " So, if you want to find a clue to the American style, you need to dig where intersect Hollywood and Nantucket.