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The Difficult Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane

If there is currently a fashion designer whose work splits tempers, it's Hedi Slimane. When he took over the design agendas at Yves Saint Laurent, four years ago, he moved the studio from Paris to Los Angeles. And that with a label, which is regarded in France as a national shrine.


He stroked the name Yves from Yves Saint Laurent and presented his collections from now on under the name of Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. Even that came to no good everywhere. However, a real storm swept through the designer, as he presented his first collection for Saint Laurent. "Scraps that one can buy at the flea market", etched the one, "fashion for rich kiddies" the other.


What his critics had to say, did not seem to care Slimane. He even drew a little farther in their California snail back and did what he had set out to do: from the heavily loss-making fashion(formal dresses online) house Yves Saint Laurent to form a completely designed brand presence.


Schaut zwar aus wie vom Flohmarkt, kostet aber ein kleines Vermögen: Mit seinen Kollektionen für Saint Laurent hat Hedi Slimane Uniformen  für Rock-Chics entworfen.

converted to cash cow


Four years later, the critics are still not silenced. To punish them locks Slimane out of his fashion shows. You retaliate promptly with nasty comments. However, a detail also need to take note: Since Slimane is at the helm, this has to Kering Group (Gucci, McQueen, Puma) belonging luxury label converted to a real cash cow. 2011 Saint Laurent made just 354 million euros. 2015 will have nearly one billion. To all the 38 percent could increase sales last year alone.


Despite all the rumors peel around the designers do not want to fall silent (rumors after potential successor Anthony Vaccarello is already rifle at). What's going on there? The recent success story of Hedi Slimane is an example of how much the fashion world has changed. The mode itself is only one element among many that makes the success or failure of a house. From designers were Image makers. And Hedi Slimane is one of those who particularly well can. This has always been so, then at Dior Homme, where Slimane promoted to probably the most important men of fashion designers Noughties and now at Saint Laurent.


Only YSL, then Dior


1996 Yves Saint Laurent had the then 28-year-old brought into the company and laid him the design agendas of men's clothing in his hands. A real weight had menswear at YSL not, the house stood (and stands today) for elaborate crafted women's fashion. But Slimane managed with its narrow sections introduce a new silhouette that would have any.


As he moved 2000 Dior, where there was at this time men's fashion only in the form of boring ties or belts, the label quickly rose to the supplier of the indie scene. Hardly a London musician who is not squeezed into the edgy, super slim-fitting jackets and tight jeans of Slimane, many (such as Karl Lagerfeld), the extra down starved to those dimensions that allowed them to wear Slimane. From the shy young designers who shunned publicity prefer, was a fashion star with Zicke Nimbus and own Entourage.


Just as formerly Yves Saint Laurent polarized also Hedi Slimane with his radical aesthetics: Was it at Saint Laurent the then unheard acquisition of streetwear and menswear in the field of couture, it was a case Slimane as "sick" verschrieenes Size Zero Body Ideal which expressed itself not only in the campaign, but also on the catwalk in the form leptosomer youths with flat butt and hollow cheeks.


Built for Festival


This image of man is Slimane faithful until now. When he left in 2007 Dior, he worshiped him henceforth no more than fashion designer, but as a photographer. Slimane's picture books told of a life in black and white and under the spotlight, the beer bottle and the joint at your fingertips. The images that we make today of rock stars, they are strongly influenced by the photos Slimane. Tell a world of glamor and dirt must be opposites and beauty is often found in rather ugly than in a smooth brushed Photoshop aesthetics.


The question of when Slimane returns to fashion, was asked again and again in all its photographer-years. In March 2012, it was finally time. To the surprise of many Slimane took over alongside the men agendas at Yves Saint Laurent as well as those of women. Although women wore love to fashion from Dior Homme, woman collections had Slimane up to this point but no manufactured.


Until now hovering over Slimane's verdict, not really to women. Here, the designer sat at Saint Laurent really only at the point where he had once stopped at Dior Homme. Only that there is now next to the male and female rock chic(formal dresses melbourne). Wearing ripped jeans and Wellington boots, stuck in fucked up, colorful fur coats or leather jackets (a Slimane Classic), the fishnet stockings are torn, their eyes painted jet black. Wild sampled fashion, at very little new and much acts well known. Made for music festivals like Coachella or Glastonbury.


Lady Gaga & Justin Bieber


It is no wonder that musicians from Lady Gaga to Justin Bieber are among the staunchest supporters Slimane. he has managed in recent years to build up a base wardrobe that fits perfectly and at the same time is easy to carry as nobody else. It is the foundation of Saint-Laurent-style, but needs to be much broader as once at Dior Homme. Within a short time Slimane changed the advertising campaigns of Saint Laurent (now are androgynous rock star's testimonials) and missed the boutiques new styling (in black and white, of course). No detail that does not have on his desk. Fashion is no longer just clothing, it expresses a way of life from. This design and meticulous control, is Slimane's passion. That, complain many critics, seems to have gone to his head. Until the end of March Slimane's contract extension at Kering in the bag must be.


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